Croatia: Bohemian Rhapsody
Deciding when and where to go during these strange times is a challenge. The short list of countries that will allow Americans to visit and the conditions required for entry change overnight making it hard to choose if to go and where to go.
However, Croatia, the magical country alongside the Adriatic Sea, is open to American tourists with a PCR Covid test that is less than 48-hours old from the time of arrival. Croatia is a treasure and its Dalmatian coastline offers an unparalleled beauty, especially for those with Covid wanderlust.
Croatia’s layered Roman, Venetian and Greek history offers a unique archaeological experience well-preserved ruins, which paired with its established viniculture, and warm and friendly people—including some of most handsome men you will find on the planet—are reason enough to brave possible exposure to Covid and make the journey to this destination.
Our journey began in Split, the country’s second-largest city. The hallmark of Split is Diocletian’s Palace which makes up half of Split’s Old Town. With 17 centuries of stone and stories encompassing an endless maze of narrow alleyways, local shops, sidewalk cafes and gracious plazas, the Palace has been reconstructed, adapted and restored as a living, working village within Split.
There is much to explore throughout Diocletian’s Palace. It’s best to begin your visit at the bell tower and climb the stairs to enjoy unobstructed views of the surrounding town and sea. Stroll next door to the Temple of Jupiter and observe the reliefs on the ceiling. An afternoon at the small City Museum will provide a concise history of the Palace and centuries adaptations that have brought it to its present state.
A day trip to Krka National Park is fantastic diversion. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is an easy escape from Split and well worth the time. We used Booker tours and had charming Luca as our guide. The tour allows plenty of time for a hike around the park and a swim in the sublime pools fed by the breathtaking waterfalls. It’s the last year they are allowing swimming next to waterfalls, so make sure to include it on your list of things to do. Don’t miss trying the fresh figs sold by local ladies along the wooden walkways. A gentle boat ride on the river, followed by short trip to a family winery for wine tasting ends the day as the golden sun sets gently on horizon.
Split Essentials:
Vestibul Palace Hotel is a petite luxury hotel in the center of the Palace grounds.
ID Regal is a small family-run collection of well-appointed rooms in a great location.
D16 serves outstanding coffee with blues playing in background making for a very bohemian vibe.
Fig is wonderful for breakfast where you will be surprised to find one of the best breakfast burritos in the Mediterranean.
Bokeria Kitchen and Wine Bar for memorable dinner and an innovative menu as chic as the crowd.
UJE is a favorite for dinner and part of a local chain of olive oil shops
Ghetto Bar and Fluid Bar next door are both gay-friendly venues where you will likely meet other gay travelers while enjoying a local beer or cocktails in the courtyard.
Kasjuni Beach is a small but lively gay beach worth the short hike that can be reached by local bus or an inexpensive Uber.
Catch a Catamaran to Hvar, the one-hour journey takes you to one of the oldest towns in Europe. This quaint village is a common stopover for mega yachts filled with glamorous, Europeans looking to soak-up the mystical laid-back atmosphere of the town. Steeped in history and natural beauty, Hvar provides the perfect mix of relaxing beaches, romantic alleys, captivating architecture, and an unspoiled countryside dotted with family vineyards, olive groves and fields of lavender all surrounded by ancient stone fences.
If you really want to explore some of the best of the island, rent a convertible or motor bike and take a day trip to Stari Grad. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a charming village just 45-minutes away. Don’t be afraid to get a little lost on your way back to Hvar and enjoy the uninterrupted views as you wind your way through tiny mountain villages where time has stood still.
While Croatia provides an ungentrified experience across its many coastal towns and villages, the prize of the country are the endless beaches and breathtaking views along the Dalmatian coast. The “beaches” are primarily jagged rocks, with some gravel beaches sparsely placed near a few of the main towns. Croatia is famous for their clothing-optional beaches and you can easily find small gay beaches peppered along the coast. The natural beauty of the gay beaches is matched only by the Adriatic’s crystal blue water. Make sure and bring water shoes if you want to save your soles and not be singled out for the tourist that you are! You’ll be grateful you did even after you leave the beach and stroll through the cobblestone streets signature to most of Croatia’s old towns.
A few of our Hvar recommendations include:
The Palace Elisabeth is the best hotel in town, with formal decor, a breathtaking pool and elegant service.
Lolo’s for its unassuming, bohemian vibe, casual menu and friendly bartenders.
BB’s at the Riva Yacht Club is best people watching, as well-healed passengers disembark from their private yachts.
Sunset cocktails at Hulu Hula’s. A world-class DJ and attractive crowd bathed in golden light are the perfect way to start any night on the town.
Black Pepper is a meal to remember with their novel take on traditional dishes served by a handsome and charming staff.
Black Pepper is a meal to remember with their novel take on traditional dishes served by a handsome and charming staff.
The Terrace Bar on the town square offers beautiful views of the town and harbor.
Kalavanda is one of the sexist bars in town and is completely on-point with their extensive cocktail menu.
Central Park Club offers live music most nights and has the unique vantage point of being in the center of town.
What’s it like in Croatia during Covid? (To learn all about the particulalries of getting to Croatia, read our article on planning of this trip here.) Croatia had signage everywhere alerting people of Covid and outlining all of the precautions we’ve come to expect in the U.S. Masks are most certainly worn…below the chin, on the arm, around the neck. But, mask wearing was very consistent in airports, on airplanes, in all public transportation, for Uber drivers, hotel staff, and consistently requested when entering a retail store. Additionally, all of the staff at higher-end restaurants and hotels wore their masks consistently and properly. Hand sanitizer was everywhere, and most places spray your hand with sanitizer before entering, particularly when boarding a boat or bus. The lifestyle in most of Croatia is focused on being outdoors this time of year. Dining, shopping and site seeing was generally outside, and while restaurant tables were not spaced six feet apart, the alfresco lifestyle provided an added level of comfort. However, be prepared in some locations for packed restaurants and bars. Many travelers and locals didn’t respect any social distancing when going out, so selecting a place to dine or enjoy a cocktail will depend on your personal level of comfort.
The country overall has suffered economically from the lack of tourism, and while some places were closed or had reduced hours, there was still plenty to do and see. Business owners were thrilled to see Americans, although a bit confused as to how we got there. Bars and clubs generally closed at midnight due to a government mandate on closing times.
Gays have never been deterred in the face of challenges and Covid is no different. We cannot encourage you enough to make your way to Croatia not only to scratch that travel itch, but to show your support to a country and community that is eager to welcome you back to its shores.
